Saturday, February 10, 2007

Peter Zumthor's Therme in Vals, Switzerland is the most worthwhile thing I've done in Europe. It was an experience almost beyond words, so I snuck my camera in during "Hotel only" swim and took some photos. Brief intro: Peter Zumthor built the baths in 1996, in Vals, a town that might not even be on a map without them. It's beautiful and in a valley in the Alps. The baths are open to hotel guests most hours, and open for free to residents of the town after 11 am. We arrived Thursday night, in time for the thrice-weekly night swim, completely in silence.The baths are set up so that there are different rooms with different "experiences." Everything is in grey slate, arranged in thin horizontal bands. Rather than a room with a pool, the rooms are the pools. The above picture is the only interior "pool" in the traditional sense; it was the largest one, in the center of the baths. For the rest, you walk down stairs and wade through chest-high water to enter the rooms,which have no windows and are only lit from under the water. One bath has yellow rose petals in the water, one is extremely hot, one extremely cold (14 degrees Celsius - I didn't make it in above my knees), one really creepy that I didn't stay in very long,and one that was actually a water corridor to a heated outdoor pool. It is so surreal to swim outside in Switzerland in February. Note the mountains in the background.This morning, before public swim opened, I swam laps in the outside pool, and it was wonderful.
We got gas around the Swiss border on the way home today, and saw these two guys hitching:
(Ein foto, bitte? Sprechen sie English?)
They were Danish carpenters, hitching to Italy (our van was full or we would've offered) in what they said was "traditional clothing," though we couldn't figure out if it was traditionally Danish or traditionally carpenter. Either way it was a pretty sweet outfit.

8 comments:

Dan McCormack said...

That's amazing. The parts of Switzerland I saw were awesome, but I wish I had seen that. I've really been wanting to go back, and this post only reinforces that desire.

Alicja Fenigsen said...

guys dressed like that are called "navere" (singular will be a "naver"), which is short for "Skandinavere" and has since deep medieval times been used to designate apprentice artisans, carpenters mostly, who as a part of their education make a wow to stay away from home for at least three years, seek out masters of their craft in foreign parts and make a living on the roads of Europe by the tools of their trade only. When they return, a great feast is prepared, and they are welcomed into their guilds, with a very high status. What used to be called yourneymen in English really.
There has been quite a revival of this tradition lately, mostly by architects and designers

this from Your faithfull scandinavian correspondent at large
Alicja, Copenhagen

Alicja Fenigsen said...

ps
pool's cool

Anonymous said...

Peter Zumthor, a leading architect in minimal design, created this thermal bath with building materials that are native to the area, such as Valser quartzite. When hiking through the adjecent mountainside one can find the same rock scattered through out an equally peaceful 6 miles hike. Last I heard, Vals refused an offer from Janet Jackson to produce a musical video that was in the millions. I know the Swiss as an insular culture and promoting their own, but do you really think this video did the facility justice?

jenneral said...

Wow, I'd heard of Therme before, but these are the first pictures I've seen. Incredible! I'll have to put this on the list for an upcoming European vacation.

Did you know this post was featured on MoCo Loco yesterday? Pretty sweet!

Virginia M Byers said...

MoCo Loco! Awsome meg.

James said...

rad pics of a rad place and then moved to a rad blog. knucks.

nils zebra said...

you refer to one room as creepy. that room on its own is worth all the entry fee.
it is designed to feedback and resonance all the sounds you make in it. once you find the right pitch, the room starts to vibrate and amplify your sound. i spent hours in there just humming and feeling the sound..
if you listen closely you can hear the sound from that little room in the whole bath. amazing!